Mike and Sandy took their longest cruise to date, starting in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida,
across
the Atlantic, through both the Mediterranean and Black Seas, and returning home from Venice.
They were on the Prinsendam, Holland America's smallest ship, with capacity for just 800 passengers,
but which seemed even quieter, as only about 600 were on board this particular sailing. Each
red dot is a port they visited.
The plan was for eight quiet days at sea before we got to Europe, where we'd have tours
practically every day as we visited 19 ports. But instead, excitement began our
second day at sea when we encountered a drifting, apparently abandoned, sail boat.
We came almost to
a stop, circling the sailboat, blowing our horns (trying to wake the dead??), and
looking for anyone on board. Later the Captain reported the Coast Guard told him
the boat had been enroute from Newport, Rhode Island, to Bermuda in a sailboat regatta
when it had been hit by a big storm. There was a man and his wife on board --
the wife was washed overboard and never found, and the injured man rescued by a passing
freighter several days later.
And then to keep the excitment up, the next day the Captain announced we were altering
our course to take us to Bermuda, to take a passenger who needed immediate medical attention
off the ship. A pilot-rescue boat met us about 10 miles outside the harbor,
and the woman was transferred off in a stretcher. No one knew for sure, but the rumor was
that she had fallen and broken her hip.
Our first port of call was the town of Funchal, on the Portugese island of Madeira
(famous for its desert wines). This was the first of several stops where Sandy had reached
out to local guides, and pre-arranged private tours for us and some of our friends on the
ship - much cheaper, and often better, than the ship's bus trips.
We took a tour around the town, marveling at the scenic views
and how practically every inch of this volcanic island is being used, often for agriculture.
Another thing Madeira is famous for is sliding down from the top of the mountain
in a wicker basket -- guided by two men, sort of toboggan-like, but along city streets.
Here's Mike and Sandy zooming down the street.
.
We left Madeira after dark, heading for mainland Portugal.
But excitement returned the next morning in the form of a sinking fishing boat.
This dramea unfolded in two steps -- getting the 8 crewmen off their Zodiac lifeboat
and onto our ship, and then getting them off our ship. The first part was easy, as our
ship has cargo doors that are practically at water level, so once the Zodiac was alongside,
it was pretty easy to jump over. The next step was more dramatic, involving a Portugese
Coast Guard helicopter that flew out to meet us and take on the fishermen.
We were due into Portimao, Portugal, the next morning, but the Captain
announced that, due to high winds and a narrow river channel, we were going to bypass
that port. We turned, and headed for the following port, Cadiz, Spain (which the
natives pronounce as "Ka-deeth.")
Cadiz is a big port city, and bills itself as the oldest continuously inhabitated city
in Europe, having been founded by the Carthaginians more than 1000 years ago. It's the
port where Christopher Columbus set out on his second voyage to America.
But before explored Cadiz, we set out on an all-day trip to Seville, up river almost
100 miles from Cadiz. Seville is a beautiful city, and once was a major seaport, inland
on a big river, similar to New Orleans, but now silted up. (Seville is where Columbus
began his first voyage to America.) The locals say the Cathedral here is
the largest in Europe. The Moors were here for several hundred years, so there's a
huge local palace called the Alcazar -- similar to the more well know Ahhambra
further south in the town of Granada.
Back to the ship for the night (local Flamenco dancers were the entertainment),
and the next day was our chance to do some walking around in the historic area of Cadiz.
Sandy did find a shop to check out, but didn't end up buying anything.
Next we sailed through the Straits of Gibralter, and were finally
in the Mediterranean. We head for the north coast of Africa and the port city
of Melilla. Although administered by Spain, this tiny city is surrounded by
Morocco. Like Barcelona, it is filled with buildings designed by Gaudi or his
students. Sandy was interviewed on Spanish TV while we toured the old
fortress. And Washington could learn something from the triple-fence that
lines the border with neighboring Morocco.
Next it was back north to "mainland" Spain, where we stopped at the Spanish
port of Cartagena. (Yes, this is a tiny port, but with our rather small ship, we
can visit some of the smaller, lesser-traveled ports.) Cartagena was a pleasant city
with a medieval castle on the hill overlooking the harbor, ruins of the earlier
Roman town (including an amphitheater), and a nice "pedestrians only" shopping
street -- where the local version of the Dollar Tree Store was to be found. What is
purportedly the world's first submarine was invented here back in 1888.
Another day at sea, as we traveled further east, and back to the south side of
the Mediterranean headed for Tunisia. On the Prinsendam, you quickly meet practically
everyone on board -- sort of a small-town feel. We had a nice group at our table, including
a couple that gave us inspiration -- he's 82 and she's 78, and still doing everything
in sight! Of course our room stewards made us cute towel animals at night, we had lots
of entertainment in the evening (this is a London West-End performer singing), and
silliness on theme nights.
We had two ports to visit in Tunisia, first Sousse, and then Gabes
(pronounced "Gab-S"). Sousse is rather unremarkable, but just outside of town is a big,
well-preserved Roman Colliseum, a copy of the one in Rome, just a bit smaller
(only sized for 35,000 spectators). It was
built here not for the residents, who never numbered that many, but to impress travelers,
as Sousse was a cross-roads of numerous camel caravan routes crossing this rather arid
area. A nearby museum shows well-preserved Roman mosaics.
Gabes is quite different, being an industrial port, an agricultural area (millions of
date palms and fruit trees), and the "gateway to the Sahara Desert" (which explains
why several of the Star Wars movies were filmed nearby). with some residents still living
in cave houses.
Next stop was the island nation of Malta, known to history buffs as the headquarters
of the Knights of Malta. What a delightful place this was -- loads of history, and a bit
like Italy, but everyone speaks English! We had a great guide, and lots of fun. This
is a spot that goes on the "we come come back and spend more time here" list.
Here's views of the two sides of the harbor, as seen from our ship, plus a street scene
in the town, a shot inside the Grandmaster's Palace, a fishing village on the "back"
side of the island, and ruins on the neighboring island of Gozo that date from 3600 B.C.
The next port was one we have visited quite a few times - Kusadasi, Turkey,
known as the port for the ancient city of Ephesus. Since we have visited several times
in recent years, we decided on something different, and Sandy organized a tour out to
Pamukkale ("paa-moo-calie"), a nearby old Roman spa town. Most of the town's layout
can still easily be seen, including the always-present big amphitheater. The hot
mineral waters have been cascading down the hillside for centuries, leaving behind
calcified deposits. This town was fun to visit, as the hot mineral springs continue
to be active, giving us the sight of modern-day tourists in bikini's, laughing or enjoying
a glass of wine while soaking, directly next to the ruins of the Roman spa town from
about 2000 years ago.
On the return to town,
we saw snow on the peaks of the surrounding mountains. And back in town, Sandy lost
control, and bought a beautiful Turkish rug (here being signed, as it is being shipped home).
Istanbul was our next port, and we stayed there for 3 days. The arrival into the
harbor was during the day but not so great, due to heavy fog and drizzle. The day
brightened as it went on, and we had lots (3 days) of
sightseeing here, including the Topkapi Palace, the Underground Cistern, the Blue Mosque,
the Sulleyman Mosque, and the Hagia Sophia, built in 532AD. It's quite a sight, having
been, over the centuries, a Christian Orthodox cathedral, a mosque,
and now a museum. We had lunch at the "Pudding Shop," a Turkish cafeteria of sorts,
where some scenes from the old movie "Midnight Express" were filmed.
The Grand Bazaar (over 4000 shops - count 'em!) was fun to see (although Sandy didn't buy much),
and on our last day in town we went to the modern (read: non-tourist) area of town
where the locals live and shop for a completely different experience.
Now we headed into entirely new waters -- well, at least Mike and Sandy
haven't sailed there before -- the Black Sea. First stop was in Romania,
at the sea port of Costanta. (Mike and Sandy have actually been in Romania
before, when they took a river boat trip on the Danube River, but only passed
through Costanta to get on the river boat.) Romania doesn't have many claims to
fame, but Romanian is the only active language in the world today that is largely
made up of classical Latin. Mike and Sandy joined a tour of the ruins of Histria,
a nearby old Greek-era city, visited the local archeological museum, and then saw a
huge Roman mosaic floor
floor, part of a commercial port building from around 100 A.D. On the way back
to the ship, the group had a bit of levity as they passed a bank perhaps
belonging to someone we've seen in the movies.
Odessa, Ukraine, was the eastern-most point on the cruise. As one of the old
Soviet republics, the Ukraine has a lot of "stuck in 1950" style of construction
the Russians favored, although the city of Odessa (sort of like St. Petersburg way
to the north) seems to have always been a bit more international than other Soviet
cities, and has lots of nice pre-Soviet architecture. Their Opera House, for example,
was built by architects from Vienna in the late 1800's, and is one of the best
in Europe. Sandy took a look at the catacomb-like tunnels under the city (the city
sits on limestone rock), while Mike toured a nearby monestary that was one of the few
religious instituions that operated all during the Soviet times. The Potemkin steps
(which played a small role in the Russian revolution back in the early 1900's), are
an interesting design - quite long, they appear to be in a straight line , but this
is an optical illusion,
as the steps near the bottom are about twice as wide as those at the top.
Our trip back towards the Mediterranean was interesting, as most of our trip
through the Bosphorus and Dardanelles narrows was during daylight. You can see the tall
buildings of Istanbul even before you enter the Bosphorus straights. In the Dardanelles,
there are several memorials and monuments visible related to the Gallopoli battles
of World War I.
Now it's back in the Mediterranean, as we head for Athens. Having been there
recently, Mike and Sandy opted for an all-day tour out to the Corinth area, as in
the Bible's Letters to the Corinthians. We visited ruins of a hill-top fortress from
the Mycenaean period, and a "beehive" shaped burial tomb from as early as 1600 BC
was quite unusual. We had lunch at a cute sea-side town before visiting the nearby
Corinth Canal. Back in Athens the next day, we visited the Plaka ("old town") area,
where we saw a clever mime and Sandy did her part to help the struggling Greek economy.
Forgetting history for a few days, the next stop was the tourist island of
Santorini. (This is where late one afternoon in 2011 Sandy was shoved against a wall
by a line of eager-to-get-to-dinner donkeys heading for their stables.) We didn't do
any tours, but just enjoyed the sights and shops, catching up on some email at a
cliff-side coffee shop.
Another Greek port, Argostoli, was next - completely new to Mike and Sandy. This is
a little town on the little island of Kefalonia off the west coast of Greece, with
agriculture and holidays (mainly folks from further north in Europe coming for a week or
two). We took a ride on an underground lake, visited a cute fishing village, and admired
beaches way down a cliff from the road.
Another new port for Mike and Sandy was Durres, Albania. Durres is a dreary
industrial port, with little of interest to tourists. (There was an amphitheater in
Roman times, but only a small part of it has been excavated -- what you see is mainly
dirt and weeds, with lots of imagination required about what is still buried.) We drove
inland to Tirana, the capital city, which is a bit more inviting - it has a quite nice
museum, built by Italy as a gift to the country, of the history of Albania. All in all,
this day was a sad example of what socialism under the old Soviet Union did to people
and countries. (On the other hand, Mother Teresa was born in Albania.)
In Croatia, Mike and Sandy have enjoyed several visits to the medieval walled
city of Dubruvnik over the years. This itinerary called at a small island called
Korcula, which featured beautiful scenery, quaint fishing villages, and a small
wine industry.
Sandy and Mike have been in Venice a number of times over the years, but had never
sailed into the Harbor. Seeing Saint Marks Square from the water side was impressive (and
imagine what it must look like for pedestrians to look up and see the "tallest building
in Venice" sliding past them on the water).
The Prinsendam will continue on, heading back towards Florida, but after more than a month of sailing,
Sandy and Mike were ready to jump ship. They checked into a Courtyard by Marriott right at the
Venice airport, and then took the water bus ("vaporetto") into town. Venice is always a fun place to
visit, and we enjoyed several hours walking around the narrow lanes. After a little bit of shopping
(Sandy remembers all the best shops on five continents), Sandy and Mike had a quiet
evening of rest, and the next morning were off to home via Munich on a big shiny
Lufthansa bird.